Prolog
When we
sailed the Atlantic, onboard the beautiful Vision of the Seas, in April 2013,
we met a charming couple and became good friends with Donna & Russ. While sailing, we decided that the next trip
we shall together. About a month
afterwards I found this trip with the Celebrity
Reflection that crosses the Atlantic as well. Tova and I decided also to spend about 10
days in Germany after the end of the cruise.
I called Donna and she was excited as much as we did.
In June
2013 I called Costco Travel. On the
other line was Donna and we booked this trip.
I then made my research and booked guides in different ports and of
course Germany.
I contacted
some travel agencies to book our tour guides in major attractions. I finally “landed” Adi Mahler from Barcelona,
George (Jorge) from Berlin and Bridget from Munich.
Day 1 – April 25th
– April 26th 2014
At 8:30 in
the evening we were picked up by D&D Limo Services and headed to LAX, where
we boarded our flight# 258 to Miami, Florida.
The flight left at 11:30 PM and we landed in Miami at 7:45 AM the next day.
We took a taxi from the airport to the cruise port and checked in our
luggage with the cruise.
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It was a
pleasant day in Miami and we decided to walk to Seaside Marina & Shopping Center. On our way we passed the basketball arena
where James, Wade and Bosh were making history.
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We returned
to the port at 11:00 and went through the check-in process. Our cabin# 1571 (Aqua Class suite) was ready
for us. We found our cabin very elegant
and comfortable. We decided to tour the
ship and find where everything is.
The Celebrity Reflection is the newest
vessel in the Celebrity family. It
features the Persian Garden Spa with
many amenities, many specialty restaurants, a beautiful upper deck with a
spacious pool and an additional pool in a covered area plus sun lounges on the
15th deck, a lawn club equipped with tents, a beautiful library, a
modern casino and a shopping mall spread out on two different decks. The ship’s occupancy is 3046 passengers!
At around
1:00 we bumped into Donna and Russ whose cabin was right next to us (1573). We had lunch together and then went to the
Blu Restaurant to find out where we will spend the next 16 days having
dinner. We met Marjiana, the hostess and
found out that the seating is not fixed but first come first served. However, if our group will be six or more we
can then ask to show up at a certain time and a table would be reserved for us,
so we can sit together.
During
dinner we met our new friends for the trip: Margie and Matt from South Carolina
and Bonita from New York. We agreed that
we should have dinner together for the remaining of the trip and let Marjiana
know about it.
We all went
to the elegant theater and were entertained by a wonderful violinist. We also met the cruise director Alexander and
his two associates: Jamie and Oz.
Before
calling it a night, we moved our watches one hour ahead.
Day 2 – April 27th,
2014
A day at
sea.
We woke up
at 12:00(!)
After lunch
we visited the very modern Internet Center and then visited the mall.
I went to
the pool and the Persian Garden and had a wonderful time.
At 4:30 we
joined our new friends at the Sky Lounge
for some cocktails and then went down to the Blu for dinner. At our table we were: Donna, Russ, Margie,
Bonita and us.
In the
theater we watched a comedian named Steve
Morris, who used to play for the Beach Boys. Alexander mentioned that the “Battle of the
Sexes” had his first competition today and I decided to join them tomorrow.
Before
going to sleep we added to our watches one more hour.
Day 3 – April 28th,
2014
A day at
sea.
I woke up
at 8:00 and had breakfast at the Blu, followed by a visit to the Internet Center.
Tova woke
up at 10:00 and I joined her for coffee at the buffet lounge. I then went to the pool and spa.
I joined
the "Battle of the Sexes" and had lots of fun.
At 4:00 we
once again met our friends at the cocktails lounge and met some new friends there:
Jack & Dianne Zalewski, Marsha & John Dew- all from The Villages, Florida.
After
dinner at the Blu we went to the theater to watch a variety show. Next to our cabin (between the elevators and
the guest rooms, there is a desk, used in the daytime by the “Next Cruise
Director”. We sat there to use the
internet and a couple who went by spoke Hebrew.
We right away started a conversation with Avi & Nurit from Florida.
We went to
sleep around 2:00 AM
Day 4 – April 29th,
2014
A day at
sea.
The same
routine: Breakfast at the Blu, Internet, pool & spa, lunch, Battle of the
sexes, cocktails lounge, dinner and a show with Nick Page and his beautiful voice.
Once again
we set our clocks one hour ahead, before going to sleep.
Day 5 – April 30th,
2014
A day at
sea.
We woke up
and had breakfast at the Blu and after surfing the net I went to the theater to
listen t a lecture about Barcelona, Spain – one of our destinations.
After the
“Battle of the sexes” game we all met once again at the cocktails lounge. Our area became very popular as other guests
asked to join us.
At dinner we sat by ourselves, as the rest had other plans for tonight.
At dinner we sat by ourselves, as the rest had other plans for tonight.
We enjoyed
three different shows tonight: “Creatures from Outer Space”, “Ballroom 4 Ever”
and “One Minute & Win”.
We then returned to our cabin and watched “Jobs” on television, about the life of Steve Jobs from Apple with Ashton Kutcher.
We then returned to our cabin and watched “Jobs” on television, about the life of Steve Jobs from Apple with Ashton Kutcher.
Once again
we moved the clocks one hour ahead.
We fell
asleep at around 3:30 AM (!).
Day 6 –May 1st,
2014
Another day at Sea.
We both woke up late and went to breakfast at around 10:00.
We both woke up late and went to breakfast at around 10:00.
At 2:00 we
met and went to see the matinee show with Nick Page and then I joined the
Battle of The Sexes game show, followed by a class on the IPAD’s System.
At 4:00 we
met our friends at the lounge and when we entered the Blu at 6:00 we asked our
hostess to move us to another table. Our
new waiter was Joselito and his assistants were Armando and Marco.
We checked
our emails and went to sleep at 1:00, not before moving our clocks one hour
ahead.
Day 7 – May 2nd,
2014
Day at Sea.
I woke up
at around 7:30 and had breakfast at the Tuscan restaurant.
I joined
another IPAD class: this time was about the iClouds.
After
swimming in the pool and relaxing in the Persian garden I joined once again the
Battle of The Sexes.
We met our
friends at the lounge and then joined the Shabbat Services all dressed
formal. There were about 50 people there
and each one was asked to say few words about themselves. It was nice.
After the
delicious dinner at the Blu we entered the theater to watch the variety show Momentum.
We went to
sleep at midnight.
Day 8 – May 3rd,
2014
Last day in the Atlantic Ocean!
After
breakfast Tova went to have a massage at the spa as I was swimming and reading.
Today was
also the last day for the Battle of The Sexes Game Show. The women team won as they knew the complete answer
to: “Name all the children in the Von Trapp Family”.
We had
another class of IPOD: this time the subject was: Security
After a
great time at the Sky Lounge and a fabulous dinner we entered the theater for
another Variety Show and then went back to our cabin, getting ready for
tomorrow’s first excursion of this trip.
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Day 9 – May 4th,
2014
When we
woke up at 7:30, the ship has just arrived to Santa Cruz, the capital of Tenerife,
Canary Islands.
We had
breakfast at the Blu and disembarked at around 9:00 with Nurit & Avi, as
Donna & Russ opted to stay aboard the ship today.
Outside a
group of singers and dancers were welcoming us.
They were great and made us feel welcomed.
We found a
nice taxi driver/guide, by the name of Antonio
Garcia, who spoke English.
Antonio
gave us a brief description of the island: It is the largest island of the seventeen Canary Islands. It is also the most
populated island of Spain. The name Islas Canarias is likely derived from the Latin name Canariae Insulae, meaning
"Island of the Dogs". It is
said that the original inhabitants of the island, Guanches, used to worship dogs and treated
them generally as holy animals. Four of Spain's thirteen national parks are located
in the Canary Islands, more than any other autonomous community.
Our first stop was at La Laguna, which was also Antonio’s
home city. La Laguna is a city and municipality in the Province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
The city is the third-most populous city of the Canary Islands and the
second-most populous city in Tenerife. La Laguna's historical center was
declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999. We were given a couple of hours to explore and visited the
following sites: The Fundacion Cristino de Vera – An art museum, Iglesias
de Concepcion – A historical building, Santa
Iglesias Cathedral – A religious site, and
Casa Salazar – Where we
toured the chapel of the Bishop. We walked the
narrow streets and made a loop, returning to where the taxi parked.
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We drove up the mountains towards Mount El Teide, entering the National Forest, and had many stops along the way to take photos of the marvelous views. The Teide National Park has a large historical value. This place had an important spiritual significance to aboriginal Guanches. In the park we saw important archaeological sites, which have been discovered. For the Guanches the Teide was a place of worship, thought to be the gate of hell. It was declared a national park in 1954, making it one of the oldest national parks in Spain. It is also the largest national park in Spain and an important part of the Canary Islands. The nineteen thousands hectares park was named a World Heritage site by UNESCO just 7 years ago. Midway up the mountain we saw the telescopes of the Observatorio del Teide.
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This dramatic
scenery of the park has been featured in films such as One Million Years B.C. (1966), Clash of the Titans (2010), and Wrath of the Titans (2012). The Raquel Welch poster of One Million Years B.C. was taken here
We
entered the Visitor Center at El Portillo to learn how the plants and
animals survive in the volcano environment.
The center demonstrates how Mount Teide with its 3718 meters
came about. We entered a small room where we viewed a short film that showed
the importance of Teide National Park and the whole Canary Island archipelago.
After leaving the center we
stopped at Plateau of Ucanca to see the unique rocks formation and then visited
Roques
de Garcia,
which are pretty special, but what we really wanted
to do here is to get a picture of the shillelagh shaped Roque Chinchado (looks like a man’s penis) with Mount Teide in the
background.
We drove a short distance to look at the trams that take tourists up to the summit and then drove the La Tarta (The Cakes), which is one of the real curios in the park; it is a rock formation whose diverse layers resemble a slice of cake.
We drove a short distance to look at the trams that take tourists up to the summit and then drove the La Tarta (The Cakes), which is one of the real curios in the park; it is a rock formation whose diverse layers resemble a slice of cake.
We started our descent and visited Minas de San Jose,
a lava formation in blue-green sands spilling down from the mountainside (Looks
like a setting for Star Trek).
We arrived to the old town of La Orotava, which lies at the foot of the mountain, in a valley. We visited La Casa De Los Balcones an architectural treasure from the 17th century. Its name means the house of the balconies in Spanish in which the balconies and patios are in the front of the building. It was first built in 1632 and offers a great variety of typical Canarian products which include artwork, embroideries ceramics and more. The building has three stories, it features five balconies.
We arrived to the old town of La Orotava, which lies at the foot of the mountain, in a valley. We visited La Casa De Los Balcones an architectural treasure from the 17th century. Its name means the house of the balconies in Spanish in which the balconies and patios are in the front of the building. It was first built in 1632 and offers a great variety of typical Canarian products which include artwork, embroideries ceramics and more. The building has three stories, it features five balconies.
We also visited Iglesias de La Concepción (church), one of the best examples of Baroque era in the Canary Islands.
I went to the Sky Deck to wave goodbyes as
we left and to take some more pictures of this fantastic place.
We met our friends at the lounge, compared
notes of what we did today, and then were joined by Bonita, Nurit, and Avi for
dinner.
Today’s show featured Andy Leach, a crazy magician, which made us all laugh with tears. In one of his routines he flushed some (real life) cards thar were redicolous.
Before turning in, we moved the clock one
hour ahead.
Day 10 – May 5th,
2014
At Sea!
After
breakfast I walk around the top deck for about an hour and then joined Tova at
the Persian Garden where we napped for about an hour.
We met our
friends at the Sky Lounge and then went down to dinner at the Blu.
Tonight’s
show featured Phillip Browne with his fantastic personality, strong stage
presence, and a rare velvety smooth bass voice.
We sat together with Nurit & Avi.
After the show we climbed to the 14th
deck where they viewed a water-show with mermaids and acrobatic dancers.
We returned to our cabin after midnight.
Day 11 – May 6th,
2014
We had
breakfast with Avi & Nurit at the Tussone Restaurant and at around 10:00 we
disembarked with Donna, Russ, and Nurit & Avi.
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We found a
vivid and picturesque town. The history of Malaga shaped by the city's
location in the south of Spain on the western shore of the Mediterranean Sea,
spans about 2,800 years, making Malaga one of the oldest cities in the world. The city was a site of many wars and
different rulers and that’s because of its strategic location.
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We crossed the main road and arrived at the Malaga Cathedral. It was built on a site of a mosque, which represented eight centuries of Muslim power. Though the construction of the cathedral continued until the 18th century, it is still unfinished as the main facade and south tower are incomplete.
We took the road up and ended at a promenade leading to the Alcazaba (Fortress) where we purchased the entrance tickets and started to explore this magnificence structure. It was built in 1040 to protect the royal family from outside invaders. Situated on the highest point of the hill, it's one of the best reserved Alcazaba (from the Arabic word al-qasbah which literally translates to the English word citadel), in Spain.
The Moorish Muslim rulers that erected
the fortress used the remains (visible in its columns and pillars) of a Roman
theatre lying adjacent to the Moorish construction.
We ended up back on the promenade and I entered a lobby of a hotel nearby. I asked the clerk where he will take his own family and guests to see a typical Spanish village. He did not hesitate and declared: “Frigiliana”.
We tried to get a van to accommodate all
six of us but could not find one. Avi
suggested that he and Nurit will get there via a public bus and we stopped a
taxi and Russ, Donna, Tova and I hopped in and told the driver: “Frigiliana”!
We rode for about an hour and arrived to
the town. Voted
the prettiest village in Andalucía' by the Spanish tourism authority, Frigiliana is also important from an
historical viewpoint. El Fuerte, the hill that climbs above the village, was
the scene of the final bloody defeat of the Moors in their 1569 rebellion. The
hill is topped by scanty remains of a ruined fort from which some of the Moors
reputedly threw themselves rather than be killed or captured by the Spanish.
We asked the driver to wait for us and sat down for lunch in a restaurant called Virtudes, overlooking the city on the hill. We had a combination plate full with fruits of the sea. It was one of the best dishes I have eaten in my entire life!
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We found a tangle shape of narrow cobbled streets lined by whitewashed houses, their wrought-iron balconies filled with planters of brilliant red geraniums. Small plazas provide shady seating while the village bars were full with visitors who came here to taste the locally produced wine. There were also several excellent shops selling pottery and ceramics, including decorative plates with their distinctive Arab design.
At one point we bumped into two residents who are originally from England. They decided to retire here and called it “The best place on earth!”
We toured for a couple of hours and then returned to
the spot where Donna & Russ were resting.
We found our driver and he took us back to Malaga.
I asked him to stop at Castillo
de Gibralfaro. The
magnificent castle sits on a high hill overlooking Malaga City and port, and
dates back to the 10th century.
The Image of the castle is well known: We saw it in both Malaga city and
the flag.
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We returned to the ship and went to dinner with Donna & Russ then went to the theater to watch a juggler/comedian by the name of Pete Matthews and then went to the Grand Foyer to see the “Dancing with the Stars” competition where guests were dancing with members of the ship’s dance group.
We went to sleep at 12:30.
Day 12 – May 7th,
2014
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Across the monument we found Plaza Ayutamento and City
Hall, built about 100 years ago.
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Not far from the monument we found the Roman Theater. The theater was built between 5th and 1st BC, dedicated to Gaius and Lucius Caesar, grandsons of Augustus, who had designated them as his successors. The theater had been used until the 3rd century AD when a market replaced it some 100 years later. The city was destroyed entirely by the Muslims, Byzantine and other vandals. In the 13th century a Cathedral was built, using stones from the theater. 300 years later the Cathedral was destroyed by fire. In 1988 the first remains of the theatre were discovered during the construction of the Centro regional de artesanía. The archaeological excavations and the restorations were completed in 2003. In 2008 a museum was opened.
Not far from the monument we found the Roman Theater. The theater was built between 5th and 1st BC, dedicated to Gaius and Lucius Caesar, grandsons of Augustus, who had designated them as his successors. The theater had been used until the 3rd century AD when a market replaced it some 100 years later. The city was destroyed entirely by the Muslims, Byzantine and other vandals. In the 13th century a Cathedral was built, using stones from the theater. 300 years later the Cathedral was destroyed by fire. In 1988 the first remains of the theatre were discovered during the construction of the Centro regional de artesanía. The archaeological excavations and the restorations were completed in 2003. In 2008 a museum was opened.
We spent the next couple of hours walking, looking and
admiring the recovered structures and the statues.
Minutes later we arrived to Casa De La Fortuna, which consists of fascinating remains of an
aristocratic Roman villa dating back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries, complete
with murals and mosaics, and part of an excavated road. The
most impressive feature was the fresco
painting on the dining room wall.
As Donna & Russ took their time looking, Tova and I
decided to have a little lunch break. We
entered a local bakery, across the street, and ordered café con leche’ and some
delicious empanadas and cakes.
Few blocks away we found Muralla Punica (The Punic Wall). We watched a short video and learned that this is an archaeological site from the 3rd century BC that was used as the first defensive wall of Cartagena, built by the Carthaginians. We also found out that its importance is about of the few remains of Carthaginian civilization in Spain, and the walls bear witness to one of the most important events of ancient history in the Mediterranean Sea: the Second Punic War. One of the most amazing attractions there was the crypt where remains of bones and skeletons were laying around.
Few blocks away we found Muralla Punica (The Punic Wall). We watched a short video and learned that this is an archaeological site from the 3rd century BC that was used as the first defensive wall of Cartagena, built by the Carthaginians. We also found out that its importance is about of the few remains of Carthaginian civilization in Spain, and the walls bear witness to one of the most important events of ancient history in the Mediterranean Sea: the Second Punic War. One of the most amazing attractions there was the crypt where remains of bones and skeletons were laying around.
At
this point Donna & Russ decided to head back to the ship as Tova & I
decided to continue exploring.
We arrived at Moors Castle, also known as Concepcion Castle and used an elevator to get to the top of Monte de la Concepcion, located at Parque Torres and it is a medieval castle. The Moors constructed the castle in the 12th or 13th centuries. The views of the harbor from the top were magnificent.
We arrived at Moors Castle, also known as Concepcion Castle and used an elevator to get to the top of Monte de la Concepcion, located at Parque Torres and it is a medieval castle. The Moors constructed the castle in the 12th or 13th centuries. The views of the harbor from the top were magnificent.
We walked back to the ship
and an hour later we met all of our friends at the lounge exchanging the
experiences of the day. This reunion
with our “Ship mates” became a highlight on its own. I loved sitting there and while sipping some
cocktails, conversing with my new and old friends.
After dinner we went to the theater to enjoy the act of the ventriloquist Gareth Oliver, who appeared on Britain Got Talent in 2009. He was very funny and talented.
At the end of the show we went to the 3rd deck where they held the final of “So you think you can dance”, where passengers teamed up with the dancers of the ship.
We went to bed at around midnight.
Day 13 – May 8th,
2014
Donna &
Russ joined us to breakfast at the Blu and at around 9:00 we disembarked the
ship and met with Adi Mahler, who was waiting for us at the port.
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We all climbed a van that took us to the old city (Gothic District). After a short orientation, while sipping a delicious coffee in a small café, we started our day with a tour in the Jewish Quarter. Adi has been living in Barcelona for the last few years; He is a musician and graduated from the local university with a degree in History and is a specialist on “Jewish History in Spain”.
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After walking in the most amazing narrow alleys we arrived to the ancient synagogue, the Synagoga Mayor, believed to be one of the oldest in Europe, dating back as far as the third century AD. A 2 Euro donation is all they asked on entry and provided us with a guide. We were told that this place is also called Synagogue Shlomo Ben Aderet, and it is the last reminder of what was once a thriving community. We received an enlightening presentation by the guide, who painted the picture of life as it was and the varied history of the building since that time.
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We all climbed a van that took us to the old city (Gothic District). After a short orientation, while sipping a delicious coffee in a small café, we started our day with a tour in the Jewish Quarter. Adi has been living in Barcelona for the last few years; He is a musician and graduated from the local university with a degree in History and is a specialist on “Jewish History in Spain”.
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We continued our day by taking the alleys in the quarter as Adi was pointing out few places where Jewish marks and symbol were discovered.
As we arrived to the narrow alleys of the quarter, Adi described to us where we were. He told us that El Call, Barcelona's Jewish Quarter, is an atmospheric area which offers a fascinating insight both into Barcelona's history and the story of Jews in Catalonia. El Call means "alleyway," and suitably, El Call itself is a small maze of narrow streets. Jewish
presence in Barcelona dates back to the 9th Century, although it was two centuries
later when El Call was created. Jews were hugely influential in the emergence of Barcelona as
a trading port of international significance during the medieval period and
enjoyed the King's protection until 1391, when the Jewish Quarter was attacked
and Jewish privileges rescinded.
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After a short visit in a Judaica store, we arrived to Temple D’August. Tucked away inside a medieval building in the Gothic quarter of the city, the temple was declared as a cultural asset of national interest. It was built during the Imperial Period as a temple for the Emperor Augustus. During that time, this Roman temple was the city’s central structure located on Taber Hill. The original temple was destroyed at some point in history and archaeologists failed to recover the remains till the 19th century. It was then that initially 3 columns of the temple, followed by the fourth one were found and are visible today near the Place del Rei and the Center Excursionista de Catalunya. According to studies, the temple originally had 11 columns on every wing, one on each corner, 6 at the front and 6 on the posterior side. According to some historical references, the Temple d’August is believed to have been constructed under Tiberius. Unlike the majority of Roman buildings which were torn down and built on top of.
Our next stop was Plaza de Rei, known for its link to Christopher Columbus. It is widely believed that it was on the steps fanning out from the corner of the square that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Columbus when he arrived home from his first voyage to the New World. Adi pointed out the unique architecture of the Palau Reial Major that surrounds the plaza. The palace was home to the counts of Barcelona and kings of Aragon who reigned during the Middle Ages.
We passed through the
charming Plaza De IU and then
arrived to Plaza De LA Seu and to
the famous The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulali also known as
Barcelona Cathedral. This is the cathedral that seats the Archbishop of the city. The cathedral was constructed throughout the
13th to 15th centuries, with the principal work done in the 14th century.
We continued to follow Adi and at one point we entered a clothing store and there, in the back of the store, we found remains of another old synagogue and a Mikvah.
We continued to follow Adi and at one point we entered a clothing store and there, in the back of the store, we found remains of another old synagogue and a Mikvah.
It was time for lunch and we all entered to one of Adi’s favorite Tapas Places. He also told us that when we look for good food in Spain, we must find restaurants with Catalonian names. Lunch was fresh and tasty!
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We continued to Las Ramblas, which stretches for almost a mile. We
found hundreds of tourists and locals alike, strolling around the busy boulevard. We entered the market, breathing-in the many smells and enjoying the varieties in the stalls: from the
vegetables and the fruits to the flowers, from the meats and seafood to the
cheeses, from the nuts and other candies to the bakeries. It was a festival to our eyes (and my camera).
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Out next visit was at Plaza Reial (Plaza Royal). The plaza, which lies next to La Rambla, constitutes a well-known touristic attraction, especially at night. On
the plaza there are a large number of restaurants and some of the city's most
famous nightclubs. It is also known for its many outdoor venues and is a
popular meeting place during the summer and a popular place for festivals.
We passed by other plazas and amazing
streets and after another visit to a café we ended up in the Parc de la Ciutadella.
After its establishment during the mid-19th century, it was for decades the only green area in the city, and therefore, the most popular. It is located at the northeastern edge of the old town. It houses a famous zoo, with 7,000 different species. We of course, did not have the time to make a visit to the zoo but spotted some parrots around us.
After its establishment during the mid-19th century, it was for decades the only green area in the city, and therefore, the most popular. It is located at the northeastern edge of the old town. It houses a famous zoo, with 7,000 different species. We of course, did not have the time to make a visit to the zoo but spotted some parrots around us.
Next to the park we visited The Citadel that was built in the 18th century, to
maintain control of the city and to prevent the Catalans from
rebelling as they had in the previous century, King Philips V built it, and at that time was the largest fortress
in Europe. The fortress was characterized by
having five corners, which gave the citadel defensive power, and by a rather
wide surrounding margin, serving as location for the army's cannons. It
included enough buildings to house 8,000 people.
The next stop in the park was The Casada (Waterfall), located at the
northern corner of the park opposite to a lake. It was first inaugurated in
1881 without sculptures or any meticulous details, and was thereby criticized
by the press, after which a triumphal arch was thoroughly amended by the
addition of a fountain and some minor attributes, which required six years of
construction. Two enormous pincers of
gigantic crabs serve as stairs to access a small podium located in the center of
the monument. In front of it, a sculpture of Venus, standing on an open clam,
was placed. The whole cascade is divided in two levels: from the podium on a
path leads to the Feminine
Sculpture and to the
northeastern corner of the park, and the other upon following the route down
the stairs.
While Donna & Russ rested in the shades, Tova and I crossed the street and walked towards the Arch of Triumph, which was built as the main access gate for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair.
We decided to end the day and watched a Flamenco Show, recommended by Adi. Earlier we stopped by and purchased the
tickets. The name of the show was “Flamenco
En Vivo”. The price included a
beverage and we were seated in the 4th row in the middle. It was unbelievable!
We returned to the ship at around 10:00.
Day 14 – May 9th, 2014
We met Adi
at 8:30 and headed to Gaudi Park (Park
Guel). We found a garden complex
with architectural elements
situated on the hill of El Carmel in the Gracia District of the city. It was designed by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi and built in the years 1900 to 1914.
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Adi was right when he told us that we
should be in the park early, as the park was empty of people, which gave us an
enormous opportunity to visit the park without the crowd and without the hassle of waiting in line with the
other tourist (which showed up later in their hundreds!)
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Adi gave us some details of the artist: He was born in 1826 and died at the age of 73 in a tragic accident. His death was tragic: he was strucked by a passing tram, while taking his daily walk, and laid on the street for few hours as passerby’s thought he a was a homeless man laying in the middle of the street, because of his lack of identity documents and shabby clothing. Gaudi was influenced by his passions in life: architecture, nature, and religion and considered every detail of his creations and integrated into his architecture such crafts as ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging and carpentry. He also introduced new techniques in the treatment of materials, such as trencadís which used waste ceramic pieces.
There were
two options to get into the park: Free Entrance and Paid Entrance. We opted to pay so we can explore the entire
park. The park included several unique
structures, statues and walking paths and some very nice vantage points where
we were able to look over Barcelona. There is one word that sum up the entire
park in a single word: Mosaic, The mosaic work in the park is absolutely
stunning. While walking and seeing
Gaudi’s exhibits I tried to understand the man and his approach to
architecture. It was difficult because
his work covers so many aspects. I am
sure he was a genius but as many genius artists are, he was hard to understand.
We spent a couple of hours, taking many pictures and trying to take in
the many exhibits.
When we arrived we found hundreds of people standing in line to get into
one of the most famous churches in the world.
We opted not to get in as Adi had told us that it will probably take
about three hours (!) just to get in and another couple of hours to explore and
to climb to the top.
We stood in front of the giant Basilica and Adi gave us a short
description of what in front of us: Constructions started in 1882 and a year later Gaudi was
asked to get involved, and Gaudi, of course, took
over the project and transformed it with his architectural and engineering
style. Gaudi devoted his last years to
the project and at the time of his death in 1926 less than a quarter of the
project was complete. Sagrada Família's construction progressed slowly, as it
relied on private donations and was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War, only to resume intermittent progress in the 1950s.
Construction passed the midpoint in 2010 with some of the project's greatest
challenges remaining and an anticipated completion date of 2026, the centenary
of Gaudi’s death. Although incomplete, the church is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. We made a complete circle and then found a side street café
where we sat and had coffee.
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Adi told us that since we like Gaudi’s work we should
visit Casa Batillo. We used a couple of
taxis to fit all of us and headed to our next attraction. We found another
masterpiece by the famous artist. From the outside the facade of Casa Batillo looked like it has
been made from skulls and bones. The "Skulls" are in fact balconies
and the "bones" are supporting pillars. Gaudi used colors and shapes
found in regular life as inspiration for his creativity in this building for
example, the colors chosen for the facade are those found in natural coral. This building is a stunningly original work and was well
worth the visit.
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We rested under the shade of the trees and then walked
to Las Ramblas and picked up a couple of taxi cabs that took us in front of the
Columbus Monument, which was constructed in honor to Columbus first voyage to the Americas. The monument serves as a reminder that
Christopher Columbus reported to Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand V in Barcelona after his first trip to the new continent.
The two taxi cabs waited while I was taking few pictures of the statue and then we headed towards Montjuïc - translated as "Jews Mountain", which refers to the Jewish cemetery and possible settlement there at one time. Home to Barcelona's World Exhibition in 1929 and then the 1992 Olympics, Montjuïc has been developed to include a number of attractions, including museums, theatres and clubs. An old castle still stands on the hill as well, dating back to days when political prisoners were executed en masse by the Spanish government.
It was time to say goodbye to Adi, who
was fantastic during the two days in this magnificent city. (You may find Adi’s email at the bottom of
the blog).
Once again we all met in the lounge and
exchanged experiences with our friends.
After dinner we enjoyed The Best of Broadway show at the
elegant theater and then stayed late to laugh in the traditional Love and Marriage game.
When we finally went to our cabin it was
close to 1:00 AM.
Day 15 – May 10th,
2014
After breakfast we took the tender to the
shore and after a short walk in the picturesque water-front, we waited for the
train. Our destination was Nice.
We did not have any agenda, just wanted
to visit this famous city. We found out
that the city itself is an attraction by itself.
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Once we arrived, we walked on a wide
boulevard and reached the Massena Square
where we tagged along a tourist group and heard the following from their guide:
The city is the 5th in size in France. The city is
called Nice la Belle,
which means Nice the Beautiful. The guide explained that the square is known as a place to meet and for hosting many important public
events. Often used for concerts thanks to its size and central location, it is
also a favorite spot during festivals and traditional celebrations like the
yearly carnival parade.
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There were 7 statues; representing 7 different characters
and these seven characters represent seven
continents and the communication between the different communities of today’s
society. The statue in the middle was
of Apollo and was the best to view.
The group continued but we stopped at the
square admiring the spacious area, the trees and the Italian-Style palaces
surrounding it.
We walked in the garden toward the
Mediterranean Sea and stopped at an Information Center Office to get information of
what we can see in one day in Nice. The
clerk handed me a map and highlighted the main attractions. We sat at a McDonald's next door to plan our day.
We then strolled along Promenade des Anglais –We
were actually walking along the French
Riviera! We found many people
strolling along: There were tourists relaxing in the royal blue chairs lining
the shore. There were locals roller-blading, biking or jogging along it.
Vendors sold crepes and drinks on it. What a sight!
We found a bench where we prepared our
lunch. We had our lunch while wondering the
beautiful view of the Mediterranean's in front of us. After the break I took many photos of the view
and we then used the elevator once again to get to the street level. We then continued our walk and passed the
picturesque marina.
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This historic part of Nice feels like a
medieval village with narrow streets curving between old buildings with
red-tile roofs, small restaurants and open-markets. The place is 90% car free and we walked in
the streets looking at local galleries and little shops selling local spices, olive oil, clothing, jewelry, and more.
The narrow streets had a good atmosphere, friendly people and outdoor
restaurants competing for your business. At one spot we took a break to enjoy a
delicious ice cream and excellent coffee.
It was time to head back to the
ship. We left the Old City and found our
way back to Massena Square and then took the large boulevard back to the train
station where we found some of our fellow passengers, waiting for the next
train to Villafranche.
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We boarded the ship at 5:00. Dinner was (as usual) at the Blu and we had
it with Donna & Russ. The show
tonight featured a vocalist and pianist (and also very sexy) English lady by
the name of Claire Maiden. She
performed country western-style songs and had a
beautiful voice.
We went to sleep at around 11:00
Day 16 – May 11th,
2014
We arrived
to Livorno, Italy early this morning
and when we woke up (at 6:30) we looked at the views from our balcony. It was magnificent. At 7:30, after breakfast,
we disembarked.
A shuttle
took us to the city’s center. We could have
waited for the local bus to
take us to the train station but opted to walk the 2 miles and breathe in the city.
take us to the train station but opted to walk the 2 miles and breathe in the city.
The brochure mentioned that "The Five
Lands" comprises five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding
hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park, which is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
Over the centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that
overlook the sea. Part of its charm is the lack of visible corporate development.
Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, and cars
cannot reach some of them from the outside. The villages of the Cinque Terre
were severely affected by torrential rains which caused floods and mudslides on
October 25, 2011. Nine people were confirmed killed by the floods.
The train from La
Spezia stopped first at Riomaggiore,
situated in a small valley. The village, dating from the early thirteenth
century, is known for its historic character and its wine. We walked to the center of the village and then walked over towards
the beach. Mesmerizing views were in
front of us. We took one of alleys and
started to climb the narrow steps, passing by small homes, all built on the
cliff. We then arrived back to the city’s
center and after a short stop we headed back to the train station.
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We waited about 30 minutes and rode the
train to our second stop-Manarola, which is the oldest of the towns in the Cinque
Terre. Once again we couldn’t believe our eyes when the beauty of this little town carved into a rock was in front of us. It is probably the most picturesque place I
have seen in my entire life. My camera
worked non-stop as I could not control myself and clicked away from any new angle.
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At one point we climbed a path, which was
pretty steep to arrive at the top of the hill.
The views were unbelievable. We walked
down the path and arrived at the other end of the village and to a church
called San Lorenzo, which was built
at the first half of the 14th century.
Reluctantly we headed back to the station
to catch the next train to La Spezia and connected to the next train to Livorno
(via Pisa Station).
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We arrived back to the ship at 5:15 and after our last dinner on the ship we said our goodbyes to the excellent crew of The Blu and then went back to our cabin to pack our luggage.
Day 17 – May 12th,
2014
We woke up at
6:30 and after breakfast met with Donna & Russ and disembarked the
ship. Our driver was waiting for us as
we exited the terminal at Civitavecchia, Rome. We drove for about an
hour and arrived at De Vinchi Airport,
outside of Rome. We took an Air Berlin flight
and after about an hour we touched down in Berlin, Germany. First thing on the agenda was to get our car
at Europecar. We got lucky and received
a brand new Volkswagen van equipped with the latest technologies and of course
a built in GPS.
An hour later
we booked into the Marriott Hotel. Our
room was a junior Suite, very spacious and very clean. We met Donna & Russ in the hotel’s
restaurant where they were having dinner (we opted to eat in town) and at 6:30
George (Jorge) arrived. George would be
our guide for the next three days in Berlin.
He was not a professional guide but wanted to become one. He was recommended by Adi’s friend and we
were his first clients. He prepared a great itinerary with highlights that
partly was provided by me. We decided to
meet tomorrow morning at 9:00 at the lobby.
George suggested that a great place for dinner will be at the Hofbrau Berlin next to Alexander Platz, a large public square and transport hub in the central of the city.
We exited the hotel as light rain welcomed us to a breezy evening. We walked for about 20 minutes and arrived at the plaza. Hundreds of people were walking at the center of the plaza and one of them gave us directions to the restaurant.
Five minutes later we were sitting in this huge place, with dozens wooden benches, which serves the same liter-size mugs of beer and big plates of German fare as the Munich original. A brass band and fast servers, dressed in traditional German clothing added further authenticity to this place. We enjoyed the music, the beer and the huge plates of Wiener schnitzel and noodle with cheese.
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We walked back to the hotel as the rain
increased and we got pretty wet. I hid
my camera under my coat and prayed that nothing will happen to it as we got
soaked!
Happy and anticipating tomorrow we fell
asleep at around 11:00
Day
18 – May 13th, 2014
We woke up at
7:00 and after breakfast at the hotel (which was included in our price, since
we booked the room a year in advance) we waited for George, who showed up
promptly at 9:00.
We used our van
and drove outside of the city.
The first stop was at Flensburger Lowe, also called The Isted Lion and George informed us that this monument is a Danish war monument originally intended as a monument of the Danish victory in the Battle of Isted in1850 — at its time the largest battle in Scandinavian.
The next
stop was on my “bucket list” for a long time: The House of Wannsee Conference.
In 1942
a fateful meeting of high officials from the Nazi Ministries and the SS was
held in the Minoux Villa by the Wannsee waterside. Under the direction
of SS Chief Reinhard Heidrich,
negotiations took place on the organized deportation and murder (the “Final
Solution”) of European Jews in the occupied areas of Poland and Eastern Europe, whereby most of the Jews of
German-occupied Europe would be deported to Poland and murdered. Conference
attendees included representatives from several government ministries,
including state secretaries from the Foreign Office, the justice, interior, and
state ministries, and representatives from the SS. In the course of the meeting, Heidrich
outlined how European Jews would be rounded up from west to east and sent to extermination camps in the General
Government (the occupied part of Poland), where they would be
killed.
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For the next couple of hours we walked
and learned. There were many exhibits, lots of pictures and at one point I saw
the Israeli Attorney General – Yehuda
Weinstein, who was accompanied by his bodyguards and advisors. He was given a VIP tour.
We arrived to the city of Potsdam and to our next destination - Sanssouci Park, which is a large park surrounding the famous Sanssouci Palace. We parked our van and walked to the most beautiful palace. As we arrived to the palace George told us that this is the former summer palace of Frederick the Great, King of Prussia. He continued and said that it is often counted among the German rivals of Versailles. While Sanssouci is in the more intimate Rococo style and is far smaller than its French Baroque counterpart, it too is notable for the numerous temples and follies in the park.
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The palace was designed and built between
1745 and 1747 to fulfill King Frederick's need for a private residence where he
could relax away from the pomp and ceremony of the Berlin court. The palace's name emphasizes this; it is a French
phrase (sans souci), which translates as "without concerns",
meaning "no worries" or "carefree", symbolizing that the
palace was a place for relaxation rather than a seat of power.
The garden did remind me of the one of Versailles with a beautiful water
fountain and many gorgeous trees, flowers and arches. On the side of the palace I found Frederick‘s grave with flowers and some
fruits on top…
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We entered the palace and for the next 2
hours walked around the many priceless exhibits, pictures, statues inside large
rooms and hallways.
We exited the palace and walked in one of
the many paths in the new park (Neuer Garten) and arrived to Schloss Cecilienhof, which is famous for being the last palace built by the Hohenzollern family that ruled Prussia and Germany until 1918. It is also famous for having been the
location of the Potsdam Conference in 1945, in which the leaders of the Soviet Union, the
United Kingdom and the United States took important decisions affecting the
shape of post World War II. The palace had manicured courtyards and
unique roof tops. The palace’s famous
residents were Prince Wilhelm and his wife, Duchess Cecilie (alas its
name). We did not enter the palace but
learned that there were 176 rooms (!) inside.
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We found our car and drove to Potsdam to have lunch. George recommended Altstadt Restaurant and the food was delicious.
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Inside the museum we found several rooms,
each representing different era during the dark days of Europe. Some of the pictures in the museum were rare
and were first shown to the public after the opening of the museum in 2001.
We returned to the hotel at around 7:00, skipped dinner and
went to our room for a much needed sleep.
Day
19 – May 14th, 2014
We woke up
at 7:00 and after a delicious breakfast at the hotel we met with George.
Our
original plan was to take the car and park on the west side where most of the
attractions for the day were, but opted to walk as the skies were blue and the
temperature outside was comfortable.
We past a
very famous News Building: Berliner
Morgenpost, the second most read
daily newspaper in the city and then continued to Oranien Strasse. The street passes through an area heavily bombed during the war and
which was rebuilt with modern-style housing. We walked and our eyes were
aiming up to the magnificent tall buildings in the street.
At Fridriech
Strasse we turned right and found ourselves in what used to be the famous
checkpoint between East and West Berlin.
Checkpoint Charlie was the name given by the Western Allies to the best-known Berlin Wall crossing point between East Berlin and West Berlin during the Cold War and became
a symbol of the Cold War, representing the
separation of East and West. Soviet and
American tanks briefly faced each other at the location during the Berlin Crisis of 1961.
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A short distance away is the Gestapo Building. We walked through the
exhibits; in something they call Topographie
Des Terrors Documentation Center, located in Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse, on the
site of the building, which during the Nazi regime (1933 to 1945) was the headquarter of the Gestapo and the SS. It was located alongside the wall that separated the
east and west. George suggested not
entering the building, as we still had many sites to visit today and had a 1:30
appointment for us to visit the Parliament. Tova & I decided to come and
visit the building later on today.
Few steps away we found the Martin-Gropius-Bau Building, where
a special exhibition was on display, featuring work by the famous Ai Weiwei, from China. Ai Weiwei is a
mega star in the western international art scene. The exhibition covers 3,000
square meters and shows new works and pieces never before seen in Germany,
including examples of conceptual art, performance art, music, photography and
installations. The poetic works of Ai Weiwei are often political statements,
but also reveal cultural and historical references.
We found out that In 2008 Ai Weiwei was invited by the
Shanghai City Council to construct a very large studio. But when it was ready,
the authorities had it demolished in one day (!), since the artist had dared to
criticize the government.
The artist is China's most famous artist and is not allowed
to leave his country. He is called by many “A Provocateur without a Passport”. According to the team that was sent on his
behalf to Berlin, the artist used to email them instructions of how to continue
the work. In return they sent him
pictures of the progress. What's especially impressive is the precision
with which Ai Weiwei explores the possibilities of the museum rooms with his
works and how he has calculated their impact from more than one thousand
kilometers away. The exhibit that impressed me the most was his huge bicycle
installation flooded with light hangs at the entrance of the building. It's
comprised of 150 bikes welded together into a mega metaphor.
We took a taxi and arrived to the Neue Synagogue ("New Synagogue"). The magnificent structure was built between
1859 and1866 as the main synagogue of the Berlin Jewish
community, on Oranienburger Strasse. Because of its splendid eastern Moorish style and resemblance to the Alhambra in Spain, it is an important
architectural monument of the second half of the 19th century. The front of the
Synagogue is beautiful is richly ornamented with shaped bricks and clay accented by colored
glazed bricks. We spent over an hour walking through the art exhibits and at
one point we climbed to the top floor to be mesmerized by the beautiful view of
Berlin.
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George made an appointment for us to visit the Reichstag, the seat of the German Parliament. We were asked to provide the passport details for clearance ahead of our reservations. We took another taxi and arrived on time to visit one of the most fascinating buildings in the world. We entered the magnificent building and learned that it was constructed to house the Imperial Diet (German: Reichstag), of the German Empire. It was opened in 1894 and housed the Diet until 1933, when it was severely damaged in a fire, under circumstances still not entirely known, but the Communists were blamed by the Nazi Party (which helped them in the upcoming decisive elections). The building was damaged even more at the end of the war, when the Soviets entered Berlin. The picture of a Red Army Soldier raising the Soviet flag on the Reichstag is one of the most famous 20th century images and symbolized Germany's defeat. The term Reichstag has not been used by German parliaments since World War II. In today's usage, the German word Reichstag refers mainly to the building, while Bundestag refers to the institution.
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The building has a large dome on top made
out of glass and has a 360-degree view of the surrounding Berlin cityscape. The
main hall of the parliament below can also be seen from inside the dome, and
natural light from above radiates down to the parliament floor. A large sun
shield tracks the movement of the sun electronically and blocks direct sunlight
which would not only cause large solar gain, but dazzle those below.
Construction work was finished in 1999 and the seat of parliament was
transferred to the Bundestag in April of that year.
decided to continue touring the city. We
walked towards the Gestapo Building, using the same streets we had used in the
morning. We arrived to the building an
hour later, after a stop at Einstein Café, sipping a delicious latte and
enjoying the best apple strudel I have ever had.
The buildings that housed the Gestapo and
SS headquarters were largely destroyed by Allied bombing during early 1945 and
the ruins demolished after the war. Inside
the building we found many pictures that were available to the public only in
the last couple of years.
We spent about an hour looking and
reading and then returned to the hotel, using the main boulevard, Axel Springer Strasse.
Day
20 – May 15th, 2014
We woke at 7:00 up to cloudy skies. The weather man promised a high of 62 degrees
Fahrenheit and no rain.
After breakfast at the hotel, we met with
George and started our day.
We drove our car and parked it right next to Potsdamer Platz. George told us that this important public square and traffic intersection in the center of Berlin is named after the city of Potsdam, and marks the point where the old road from Potsdam passed through the city wall of Berlin (at the Potsdam Gate).
The structure was amazing in size and beauty and the colors of the buildings added a picturesque background. A railway station is situated underneath the building. I was impressed once again at how the Germans managed to pick up their lives so quickly and get back at doing what they are good at - and while they are at it, they know that the terror of the Cold War will never be forgotten - the scars of the War still remain in the form of the wall markings on the ground, running through the heart of the Plaza.
The structure was amazing in size and beauty and the colors of the buildings added a picturesque background. A railway station is situated underneath the building. I was impressed once again at how the Germans managed to pick up their lives so quickly and get back at doing what they are good at - and while they are at it, they know that the terror of the Cold War will never be forgotten - the scars of the War still remain in the form of the wall markings on the ground, running through the heart of the Plaza.
We crossed the street and arrive to the Sony Center. We learned that the
site was originally a bustling city center in the early 20th century. Most of
the buildings were destroyed or damaged during World War II. From 1961 on, most of the area became part of the No
Man's Land of the Berlin Wall,
resulting in the destruction of the remaining buildings. After the fall of the
Berlin Wall on November 9th 1989, the square became the focus of
attention again, as a large and an attractive location, which had suddenly become
available in the center of a major European capital city like Berlin.
The center contains a mix of shops,
restaurants, a conference center, hotel rooms, luxurious rented suites and
condominiums, offices, art and film museums, cinemas, an IMAX theater, a small version of Legoland, and a "Sony Style" store.
We continued and made a brief stop at the
Philharmonic Building and then
arrived to the New National Gallery (Neue Nationalgalerie), at the Kulturforum. This is a museum for modern
art, with its main focus on the early 20th century.
It is part of the National Gallery of the Berlin State Museums. The museum building and its sculpture gardens were
opened in 1968.
We returned to our car and asked George
to take a coffee break and we drove our car to the original Einstein Café in
the city, established in 1978. We
ordered cappuccinos and strudels, which were delicious!
The Berlin Wall was a barrier constructed by the German Democratic Republic (GDR, East Germany) starting in 1961, that completely cut off (by land) West Berlin from surrounding East Germany and from East Berlin. The barrier included guard towers placed along large concrete walls, which restricted a wide area (later known as the "death strip") that contained anti-vehicle trenches, "bed of nails" and other defenses. The Eastern Block claimed that the wall was erected to protect its population from fascist elements conspiring to prevent the "will of the people" in building a socialist state in East Germany. In practice, the wall served to prevent the massive emigration and defection that marked East Germany and the communist Eastern Block during the post-World War II period until, under world pressure, the communist party allowed to open its gates and hence the wall was tear down around the city, except some points were it remains today as evidence of what went on for 28 years.
We walked along the wall admiring the graffiti painted on them after 1989. Graffiti on the wall became popular for artists from all over the world and a place where tourists would go and admire the artwork. The West Berlin side of the wall had artwork completely covering the wall, while the East Berlin side was kept blank until 1989 when many artists came and painted on the east side of the wall, expressing political views or their artistic talents.
We drove our car to the Soviet War
Memorial and the Military Cemetery at Treptower Park. It was built to commemorate 5,000 of the
80,000 Soviet soldiers
who were killed by the Germans in the Battle of Berlin during April–May 1945. It opened four years after World War II
on May 8, 1949. The Memorial served as the central war memorial of East Germany. Our focus was a monument that was a 40 feet tall statue
of a Soviet soldier with a sword holding a German child, standing over a broken swastika. The statue commemorates the deeds of a Soviet sergeant, who during the
final storm on the center of Berlin risked his life under heavy German machine-gun
fire to rescue a three-year-old German girl whose mother had apparently
disappeared.
We drove to the west side of the city and arrived to Alexander Platz to visit 360 Degrees Berlin – The Berlin TV Tower.
As this was the last stop of the day, we
said our goodbyes to George who was a wonderful guide and then took the
elevator to the top of the tower.
(George’s details could be found at the bottom of this blog).
When we read the brochure, that was given
to us when we purchased the tickets, we found out that the tower was
constructed between 1965 and 1969 by the administration of the German Democratic Republic. It was intended as a symbol of Berlin, which
it remains today, as it is easily visible throughout the central and some
suburban districts of Berlin. With its height of 368 meters (over 1,000 feet!),
it is the tallest structure in Germany!
When we got to the top of the tower,
using a fast speed elevator we stopped breathing when the panoramic view was
underneath us. This was the perfect stop
to view the entire city from the top. We
looked all around and were able to identify ALL of the stops we had made in the
last 3 days. This was by all means the
best stop to see and admire this beautiful city and fittingly our last stop in Berlin.
We ended our day at the same restaurant
that Tova & I visited a couple of days ago: Hofbrau Berlin. Now that there were the four us, we tried
new dishes and enjoyed every one of them!
When we
returned to our hotel, the time was 10:00! We packed our
luggage anticipating the drive tomorrow towards Munich.
Day
21 – May 16th, 2014
We woke up
at 7:00 and met Donna & Russ at the hotel’s restaurant.
After
breakfast we loaded our luggage onto the car and started our trip.
We arrived to Leipzig a couple of hours later. The scenes on the way were so peaceful and beautiful and the temperature was a comfortable 79 degrees and sunny skies. On the way we stopped at a McDonald’s restaurant and were amazed by how the menu is so different here from the one in the States, with espresso variety, beer, schnitzels, variety of sausages and pork dishes.
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We entered
a gas station at the outskirts of the city and were guided by the attendant of
what we can see in the next 4 hours. She
also let me read and take pictures of a tour guidebook that was for sale and I learned
the following about the city:
Leipzig has been a trade city since at least the time of the Holy
Roman Empire. The city sits
at the intersection of the Via Regia and Via Imperii, two important medieval
trade routes. Leipzig was once one of the major European centers of learning
and culture in fields such as music and publishing.
Leipzig is also a city of great history — Martin Luther, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Johann Sebastian Bach, Felix Mendelssohn, Richard Wagner, Angela Merkel, and many other German VIPs have spent time here. Leipzig became a major urban center within the German Democratic Republic (GDR - East Germany) after World War II, but its cultural and economic importance declined despite East Germany being the richest economy in the Soviet Block.
Leipzig later played a significant role in instigating the fall of communism in Eastern Europe, through events which took place in and around St. Nicholas Church.
Since the reunification of Germany, Leipzig has undergone significant change with the restoration of some historical buildings, the demolition of others, and the development of a modern transport infrastructure. Leipzig today is an economic center in Germany and has a prominent opera house and one of the most modern zoos in Europe. Leipzig is nicknamed as the "Boomtown of eastern Germany", "Hypezig" or "The new Berlin"
We found a parking spot right across a police station (to Tova’s relief) and started to explore as much as we could in our limited time.
First we visited the famous St.
Nicholas Church, which has long been one of
the most famous in the city, and, as I
mentioned, rose to national fame in 1989 with the Monday Demonstrations when it became the center of peaceful revolt against
communist rule. Inside the church we
found an exhibit that described what went on some 25 years ago. Demonstrations
began on September 4th, 1989 after the weekly Friedensgebet (prayer for peace) in the church, and
eventually filled the nearby downtown Karl Marx Square (today known as Augustusplatz). Safe in the knowledge that the Lutheran Church supported their resistance, many dissatisfied East
German citizens gathered in the court of the church, and non-violent demonstrations began in order to demand rights such as the
freedom to travel to foreign countries and to elect a democratic government. We looked at the famous organ and read that this
instrument is one of the best examples of the 'romantic' style of
organ-building in Europe, and it was renovated from mechanical (tracker) action
to pneumatic action in the early 20th century.
We left the church and walked towards Augustusplatz, the city’s main square. There we found a corner café and had fantastic cappuccinos and (of course) apple strudel a la mode!
In the center of the square we visited a farmers’
market and then walked around the square, loving the architecture, the smells
and the cleanness.
We returned to our car and drove to Volkerschlachtdenkma (try to pronounce
that!) and to the Monument to the Battle of the
Nations, which is a monument
to the 1813 Battle of Leipzig, also known as the Battle of the Nations, and commemorates Napoleon's
defeat at Leipzig, a crucial step towards the end of hostilities in the War of the Sixth Coalition, which was seen as
a victory for the German people. Between
October 16th and 19th 1813, (6 months before the exile of
Napoleon to Elba in May 1814), the Battle of the Nations was fought by the
coalition armies of Russia, Prussia, Austria, and Sweden against the French
army of Napoleon aided by Polish and Italian troops as well as German-speakers
from the Confederation of the Rhine. Napoleon's army was defeated and compelled
to return to France while the Allies invaded France early the next year.
We found the major highway and continued our way towards Munich, the capital of Bavaria. Once again we marveled the scenery on the way, and at around 7:30 made it into the city, where we found our hotel, Marriott, located on Schwanthalerstrasse, just a few minutes’ walk from the heart of city and the main train station. The neighborhood was prominently Muslim with many Arab shops, beauty salons, and restaurants.
We checked-in and while Tova & I decided to dine at one of the mid-eastern restaurants, Donna & Russ opted to stay in the hotel and have dinner at the hotel’s restaurant. We found a restaurant called Sinbad and consumed several dishes that were delicious and at reasonable prices.
We returned to the hotel and after checking our emails went to sleep at around 11:00 PM.
Day
22 – May 17th, 2014
We found a bakery just few steps from the hotel and had some croissants and coffee. At 9:00 our new guide, for the next 3 days showed up. Bridgett greeted us and informed us with details of what we are about to see.
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We drove a short distance and arrived to Schloss Nymphenburg.
Bridgett explained that this palace was the main summer residence
of the former rulers of
Bavaria of the House of Wittelsbach (a European royal family and a German dynasty from Bavaria).
We spent about an hour walking in the huge garden, admiring the structures and
the scenery with white swans in the lake, in front of the palace. Light rain started to fall as we left the
place to our next destination.
An hour
later, we arrived to BMW Museum and started
to wonder around many cars, mainly Beamers’ and some Rolls Royce and
Bentley. The museum deals with the
history of the automobile manufacturer BMW, who not long ago purchased Rolls Royce.
It is hard for me to describe what went on in my mind during this
visit . I found myself thinking and
remembering where I was at the time of the incident (Brooklyn, NY) and how angry I felt when
the news broke down of what was going on.
I looked at the balcony, and in my mind added the picture of the
terrorist standing on the balcony, holding a machine gun and calmly making his demands. A monument scripted in both Hebrew and German was in front of the
entrance to the building, describing the incident and acknowledging the names
of the athletes that were murdered.
We drove to
another monument. This was to
commemorate Sophie & Hans Scholl,
often referred as the Scholl Siblings. They were siblings, who were members of
the White Rose, a student group in Munich that was active in the non-violent resistance movement in Nazi Germany,
especially in distributing flyers against the war and the dictatorship of Adolf
Hitler. In post-war Germany, Hans and Sophie Scholl are recognized as symbols of
the humanist German resistance movement against the totalitarian Nazi
regime. A movie was released in 2005
with the title “The Final Days”, details the final days of the brothers and the
entire underground organization. I saw
the movie, about a year before our trip, and it was indeed a nice treat to be
in front of the house where they lived.
Later on, Bridgett drove to the school were the siblings attended and
started their activities, by throwing fliers from the top floor of the school
to the front courtyard. A monument with
several copies of the fliers was set in front of the school. A white rose is laid on top some of the fliers…
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It was around 12:00 and Donna decided to return to the hotel as she was
bothered by the cold weather. Bridgett
dropped Tova & I at the Munich
Residenz Palace, which was the residential
and government seat of the Bavarian dukes, prince-electors and kings from 1508
to 1918. We then walked around and found
our way to MarienPlatz, in the heart
of Altstadt District, which is a popular gathering spot and packs a lot of personality
into its relatively small frame. It's anchored by the Mariensaule (Mary's Column), built in 1638 to celebrate victory
over Swedish forces during the Thirty Years War; it's topped by a golden
statue of the Virgin Mary balancing
on a crescent moon.
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We were scheduled to meet Bridgett there at 1:30 “right next to the Fish
Fountain”, so we had enough time to have lunch in the nearby market on Viktualienmarkt. I purchased a liverwurst sandwich from one of
the many vendors in the market and we walked around the stalls trying to hide
from the falling rain. The sandwich was
one to remember. So delicious and juicy!
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By 1:30 we were back at the plaza and next to the fountain waiting for Bridgett, who showed up few minutes later. The fountain, Bridgett told us, called by the locals Fischbrunnen, was originally designed in the 19th century, destroyed during World War II and then later rebuilt.
As we were
standing, admiring the New Town Hall, a parade by Hare Krishna followers was
approaching. Hundreds of locals followed
the parade and a lady from a carriage was throwing sweets to the crowd.
We left the
plaza and arrived to St. Peter Church,
the oldest church in the district. Built
in the 12th century, this church is one of the most important
landmarks of the city. Inside we found
an exhibition about the “great fire” in 1327,
which destroyed the building. The interior of this Gothic church is impressive,
and we were stunned by the magnitude and beauty. It was very quiet and peaceful
until a baby decided to test the acoustics which I cannot attest are amazing!
We continued our walking city tour and
arrived to St. Jakob-Platz, where we found the new Jewish Museum, which opened in
2007 and is part of the ensemble of
the St. Jakobs-Place with the new main synagogue and the center of the Jewish
community.
We stopped at one of the city’s gates (Sendlinger Tor) and watched a demonstration by Turks, who demanded changes in their old country and then arrived to a monument for Hauptsynagoge (Main Synagogue) that was burnt to the grounds by the Nazis during Crystal Night pogroms in November 1938.
As we headed back to MarienPlatz we saw a crowd gathering in a small park, listening to a trio playing Classic Music. We decided to take a small break and joined them to listen to some classics by Mozart. The name of the trio was “Trio Scherzo”. I enjoyed it a lot and purchased a CD.
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The Hare
Krishna parade made its final stop right next to the plaza and dancers were
performing from a stage while the cult’s members were trying to recruit
passerbys to their organization.
We entered Kaufman Department Store to buy some
gifts and 10 minutes later we arrived at our hotel.
Day
23 – May 18th, 2014
We woke up
once again at 7:00 to a comfortable day with some clouds.
When we
went to the bakery for breakfast we realized that today is Sunday and most of
the shops on the street were closed. We
walked around and arrived to the central train station where we found our
favorite café: Starbucks. We sipped a
delicious latte and bite on a melted cheese baguette.
We drove
for about an hour and arrived to Neues
Schloss Schlessheim. The complex is actually comprises
three palaces (Schloss Lustheim, Neus Schloss and Altes
Schloss) in a grand baroque park in the village of Oberschleissheim. The palace was a summer residence of the Bavarian rulers of the House
of Wittelsbach.
We spent a couple of hours walking
through the palace and looking at the artwork. Some of the rooms in the palace were
stunning; the same goes for the artwork. What was great is that there were no
crowds and the rooms were all well documented in English. There was never a
need to rush. There were also various art exhibits that were highlighted
throughout the palace.
The grounds were beautiful and colorful. Bridgett told us that the grand park is one of the rare preserved
baroque gardens in Germany.
We were lucky to arrive on a day when a
group of dancers had a performance there.
They were Augsburger
Geschlechtertanz or The ensemble of the Augsburg gender Dance Association, which is made up of dancers from the Augsburg.
As I mentioned, there were hardly any visitors that day and
we were sitting in the front rows and enjoying the dancers, who dressed up
in many different Bavarian costumes. Later
on we (the few people in the audience) were invited to take part in some of the
dances. The show was spectacular!!
After the show we strolled in the Grand Park and then walked
back to the car when Roman, one of
the dancers, asked if I could be kind enough to email him the pictures I had
taken. I of course agreed and later on
my pictures were posted on the group’s website.
(You may click on http://www.geschlechtertanz-augsburg.de/galerie/2014/tag-des-offenen-denkmals-neues-schloss-schleissheim/ to view the group’s web
page and view my pictures there).
We arrived to the medieval town Dachau and after lunch we drove a short distance to arrive to one of the symbols of the Holocaust: The Dachau Concentration Camp, as it served as a prototype and model for the other Nazi concentration camps that followed.
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We entered
the main building, which is now a museum with hundreds (if not thousands) of pictures and
documents. In one of the rooms we sat
down to watch an introductory video of the camp where we gathered the
following:
The camp was the first of the Nazi concentration
camps opened in Germany, intended to
hold political prisoners. It is located on the grounds of an abandoned
munitions factory. Opened in 1933 by Heinrich Himmler, its purpose was mainly
to include forced labor, and eventually, the imprisonment of Jews, ordinary
German and Austrian criminals, and later on foreign nationals from countries
that Germany occupied or invaded.
Prisoners
lived in constant fear of brutal treatment and terror detention including
standing cells, floggings, the so-called tree or pole hanging,
and standing at attention for extremely long periods. There were 32,000
documented deaths at the camp, and thousands that are undocumented. In the postwar years it served to hold SS
soldiers awaiting trial, after 1948, it held ethnic Germans who had been
expelled from Eastern Europe and were awaiting resettlement, and also was used
for a time as a United States military base during the occupation.
Several death marches from the Dachau concentration camp occurred as the prisoners moved slowly through the Bavarian towns of Gruenwald and Wolfratshausen. Bridgett told us that on our way back to Munich we will stop at the original monument, which is in her neighborhood. At the end of the museum tour we saw a monument, which was a replica, to commemorate the Death March. We learned that because a massive Soviet 1944 summer offensive, SS chief Heinrich Himmler ordered that prisoners in all concentration camps to be evacuated toward the interior of the Reich.
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We visited all the buildings including the Crematorium, served to dispose corpses from the concentration camp; mostly the ovens were in operation day and night. At the end of 1944 their capacity was no longer enough to cremate the scores of dead from the camp. Upon liberating the camp, American soldiers came across countless corpses piled up in the crematorium. The photographs of these scenes went around the world and showed the scale and mercilessness of Nazi persecution and extermination. Also located in the rear area of the crematorium we saw the execution site where POW’s (mainly Soviet prisoners) were shot.
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We spent a couple of hours in the camp and then drove to Schloss Dachau, just a short distance away. Today, the same as over 60 years ago, people were enjoying themselves in the garden cafe, sipping a hot tasty drink and biting into sweet cakes and ice cream, not caring (or knowing) about anything else around them.
The palace is a former residence of the rulers of Bavaria at Dachau and was constructed almost a thousand years ago in 1100 AD. We did not have any time to visit the inside of the palace but instead had a wonderful stroll in the unique court garden and enjoyed the wonderful views.
We started our journey back to Munich, passing in Bridgett’s town and also stopped at the original Death March Monument.
We were back at the hotel at around 6:30, skipped dinner and went to sleep at around 9:00 PM.
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Day
24 – May 19th, 2014
Sunshine
welcomed us when we woke up at 7:00. The
weatherman promised sunny and high in the 80’s. Yeah!!
After
breakfast we met with Bridgett at 8:30 and started our day driving through the
Alps. The road was beautiful with the Alps,
still with some snow, surrounding us. At some point we crossed the border to
Austria and then returned back to Germany!
We arrived
to the famous castle Neuschwanstein Castle,
a nineteenth-century Romanesque Revival palace on a rugged hill above the village of Hohenschwangau . The palace was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria as a
retreat and as homage to Richard Wagner:
The castle was built in the composer’s honor and many rooms of the castle were
inspired by his character. Ludwig was a great admirer of Wagner and was influenced by his work. The composer, by the way, took an advantage of Ludwig's admiration and used the king to cover his debts and some more.
Ludwig paid for the palace out of his
personal fortune and by means of extensive borrowing Bavarian public funds and defied all attempts by his ministers to restrain him. This was used against him to declare him
insane, an accusation which has since been refuted. While building this palace, he lived in Hohenschwangau, a palace, built by his father King Maximilian II of Bavaria, located nearby (how convenient).
On our way, Bridgett, who is a huge fan of Ludwig, told us some of the history evolving this unique man: He was King of Bavaria from 1864 until his death in 1886. He is sometimes called the Swan King (for his love to swans) and the Fairy Tale King (after the fairy palaces that he had built). He succeeded to the throne aged only 18! Two years later Bavaria was under control by Prussia, and subsequently absorbed into the German Empire. Ludwig remained King of Bavaria, but largely ignored state affairs in favor of extravagant artistic and architectural projects. He commissioned the construction of two lavish palaces along with fantastic Neuschwanstein Castle. When I asked Bridgett if it was true that Ludwig was gay, she answered: “I am not going to say anything bad about my beloved king”.
Ludwig died, in a mysterious way, at the age of 41 and until today there are
many versions of conspiracies, regarding his death by drowning. He was considered a great swimmer but drowned
one evening, while being hospitalized in a mental institution, in a lake nearby
the hospital. His doctor was found dead
few yards away from Ludwig. Was it a
murder? suicide? accident?
We used a shuttle bus that took us up the mountain and to the
location of the palace. We then climbed a bit to be on a bridge overlooking the
magnificent building. What we saw was
nothing less than a masterpiece, both from an architecture point of view, but
also from the vibe it gives.
We entered the building with hundreds of other
tourists and were mesmerized by the beauty of the interior. In various stops we could see the amazing
views of the Alps and the towns nearby, but the most stunning views were those
of the Alpsee Lake.
We planned to meet Bridgett at 1:00
outside the building. Tova and I were
there on time but Donna & Russ were not to be found. I earlier heard Donna saying that she might
take the bus down as well, and we assumed that they already had taken the
shuttle. We decided that Bridgett will
stay there, while Tova & I will walk down to the village, a trip that took us
about 20 minutes. We waited for them
next to the shuttle station and then saw Bridgett coming all shaken and pale,
and asked us if we saw them. We did
not. We then decided that Bridgett will
go back up while we will visit the Alpsee Lake and then will sit down to have a
bite and beer. About 10 minutes later
Bridgett showed up again: no sign for the Clarks. We didn’t know what to think. We returned to the shuttle station and on our
way we heard someone yelling: “Avi! Tova!”
We then saw Donna & Russ sitting in a carriage, led by 6
horses. When we reunited, we understood
what happened: Donna & Russ went to an exhibition inside the castle and sat
through it. When they stepped outside (at 1:20 or so) they did not see us and decided to start walking down. Then they saw the line for the carriage and
decided to use their services. Anyhow,
it was a Happy Ending!
We drove through the beautiful scenery and the weather was cooperating with us. We arrived to Linderhof Palace . This is the smallest of the three palaces built by Ludwig and the only one which he lived to see completed.
In front of the palace there was a wonderful pond with many statues and a huge fountain. The whole scene was spectacular in its beauty. We entered the palace and viewed the rooms. We could notice that compared to Neuschwanstein Castle, the rooms were more private and were decorated to someone who actually lives there. In fact, there were only four rooms that had a real function. The room that I liked the most was Hall of Mirrors. This room was used by the king as some kind of living-room. He enjoyed sitting in the niche, sometimes reading there the whole night (Ludwig used to sleep in the daytime and stay awake in the night), the mirrors created an unimaginable effect for him when they reflected the light of the candles a thousand times. The parallel placement of some mirrors evokes the illusion of a never ending avenue.
We exited the palace and started our exploration of the park without Donna & Russ, who decided to take a break. The gardens surrounding palace are considered to be one of the most beautiful creations of historical garden design.
We found some other small buildings and huts in the park. They were all influenced by Wagner’s
compositions. We also visited the Moroccan House, which was actually
bought in Morocco; the king bought it in 1878 and redecorated it in a more
royal way. In this house, according to
historians, the king used to have wild parties.
We then visited the Venus Grotto. The building,
which is actually a man built cave, is wholly artificial and was built for the
king as an illustration of the First Act of Wagner's "Tannhauser". It reminded me a lot of the blue grotto of Capri. Ludwig liked to be rowed over the lake in his
golden swan-boat.
It was already 6:00 and also the end of our visit. We headed back to Munich and arrived to our hotel at around 7:00. We thanked Bridgett for all her hard work and said our goodbyes. (Bridgett’s details can be found at the bottom of this blog)
Tova & I decided to visit an Italian restaurant for dinner, recommended by the hotel receptionist, and we walked to its location, some 6 or 7 blocks away, following the directions given to us at the hotel. The food and the atmosphere of Café Osteria were great. The decor was perfect Italian, the staff helpful and English speaking (with Italian accent, of course...). Service was quick and the food superb. Tova swore that the minestrone soup was the best she ever tasted: “chock full of firm vegetables” she proclaimed. What a beautiful and delicious way to depart the magnificent city of Munich!
We packed our luggage and went to sleep early.
Day
25 – May 20th, 2014
We had our last breakfast in
Munich and started our journey.
We arrived to Rothenburg
ODT at around noon and entered the city through one of its gate, found a
parking spot on the street and started our visit in this medieval old town, located on the Romantic Road,
the popular tourist route through historical towns in southern Germany.
It was lunch time and a café owner recommended trying
the Greek restaurant across the street.
I was so happy that we listened to him as the Gyro sandwich wrapped in a
homemade pita was out of this world.
We walked up the street that lead to the Central Market
and at one point we used a narrow street to arrive to handwerkerhaus. This house
had a series of rooms set up so we could see how people lived back in the day
(1200 AD). The chimney system was fascinating. There were three levels to the
house and the stairs weren't all that even but worth the “risk” as the top
floors were very informative as well.
We walked
towards a beautiful narrow street with lots of tourists sitting in the bars,
restaurants with chairs on the sidewalk, and shops. I thought to myself that besides being such a
nice medieval town, it was amazing to see that the shops are not taken by cheap
souvenir made in China. Instead they offer authentic German products that add
to the uniqueness of the place. We arrived to the Market Square (Marktplatz), which is the center of urban life
in the city. The square is framed on the west by the Town Hall (Rathaus), on the north by the Councillors' Tavern (Ratstrinkstube), on the east by shops and
cafés, and on the south by St. George's
Fountain, where we rested for awhile.
This fountain is the largest fountain in town. Previously, it was an
important drinking water reservoir and thus essential for the livelihood of the
population. For over 400 years, the elaborate column has been decorated on the
fountain crowned by the figure of St George which included dragons.
Not far from the Market Square, on top of a tower, an eagle was building its' nest.
Not far from the Market Square, on top of a tower, an eagle was building its' nest.
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Donna &
Russ rested in the shade while Tova & I walked around City Hall and arrived
to St. Jacob’s Church (St. Jakobskirche), the largest church in the city, which was impressive not only
because of its towers, but also its interior.
We found Donna & Russ and started to walk back to our car. On the way we stopped at a meat shop and asked the attendant to make a sandwich for us with knackwurst, which was delicious. We then sat in a café’s garden, sipping latte and enjoying a delicious ice cream.
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We then visited one of the gates and
walked up the stairs to enjoy a beautiful view of the town and the surrounding.
We returned to our car and continued our way. About 4 hours later we arrived to Frankfurt. We looked and found an Apple Store, as Donna’s IPhone stopped working. Tova & I stayed around the (illegally) parked car, while Donna & Russ went inside the store. About an hour later they returned all happy, as they were able to fix the phone for them.
We found our hotel and went out with Donna for dinner, not far from us, and enjoyed our last dinner in Germany.
Day
25 – May 20th, 2014
We woke up at around 6:00 and drove
to Frankfurt Airport, where we returned our car. We then flew to London where we got our
connection flight to LAX.
David and his limousine were waiting to pick us up.
David and his limousine were waiting to pick us up.
We arrived home at 10:00 PM.
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Here is some useful information:
Adi Mahler – Barcelona Tour Guide…………
………. adi_mahler@yahoo.co.uk
Jorge Albarracin – Berlin Tour Guide…………………
j.e.albarracin@gmail.com
Bridgett – Munich Tour Guide……………………………
guide_7753-88@toursbylocals.com